to us, malaysia was like a more tropical version of south korea in many ways... polluted, rife with quickly slapped up and half finished concrete apartment buildings, garbage strewn just about everywhere, a general lack of paint on everything, extensive construction and deforestation, and 'vacation' destinations that were tragic examples of overdevelopment and commercialization ruining locations that were probably not really that scenic to begin with.

however, malaysia differed from korea in one major way -- the food was amazing. the multiple ethnic groups living on the malaysian penninsula (indian, malay, chinese, and british) served up a wide variety of excellent cuisines, and we enjoyed tandoori chicken, chinese chicken-rice, satay, curries, even tea and scones, as we traveled south along the penninsula from penang, to the cameron highlands in the central mountains, and south through kuala lumpur to singapore, loving every single meal. we found the blend of so many distinct cultures in such close proximity fascinating - frequently visiting a buddhist temple, hindu temple, mosque, and church all within a few city blocks.

penang me. remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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the final countdown remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Because everything was so incredibly cheap in laos, and we heard the phrase "same-same, but different" more often here than anywhere else (although we got it a lot everywhere we went in this part of the world), we finally bought our obligatory south east asia backpacker t-shirts. said by shopkeepers, guides, drivers, and hustlers alike… it basically means ‘even though you want this product / service / transportation, I’m going to give you this other one that is same-same… until you find out that it is lower quality / not available / more expensive / slower / leaves an hour later… and then I’ll clarify that it is really same-same… but different’.
But despite the transportation and bargaining shenanigans, Laos surprised and delighted us with beautifully preserved buddhist wats and resident monks who seemed genuinely interested in sharing their lives and practicing their english with us, an endless number of outdoor adventures including trekking, kayaking, tubing, climbing, and caving in the tropical forest, and cheaper prices for food, lodging, gifts, and everything else than anywhere we'd been on the trip.
We spent a few days visiting the temples and waterfalls in the ancient capital city of luang prabang, before heading out on a two day trek with our guide, Chuare, through 5 hmong and khmer hill tribe villages several hours north of the city. We hiked about 7 hours into the mountains passing through rice fields, fording 4ft deep rivers, tasting local herbs and produce grown in the fields (kirk enjoyed the sugarcane) and exploring villages all along the way.

Since it was just the two of us and Chuare, who spoke the various languages of the different peoples we visited had grown up in an isolated hmong village, himself, we were able to really interact with the local people more than we had at any other point on the trip. We played a soccer / volleyball variation with the kids, played cards and drank laos moonshine whisky with the old men, took a bath down at the river with the ladies, slept and ate on the floor of a single room smaller than our florida bedroom with 3 generations of local family – grandpa was quite the snorer -- and woke up at 3:30 in the morning with the roosters, pigs, chicken, goats and villagers getting ready for their day. we trekked and kayaked back to luang prabang the next day arriving dirty, exhausted, and very satisfied witih the adventure that was one of the most fascinating and authentic we've experienced. we rewarded ourselves by checking into a guesthouse with hot showers (a rarity) and got relaxing 3-dollar facials in town. we even had a tv in our room, but got a little taste of our lives back in the real world as we caught the final minutes of the movie apollo 13 and also watched the rockies win game 3 of the nlcs, reminding us that our amazing journey is coming to an end within the month and we'll be back to powerpoint before we know it.

After a dramatic 7 hr drive (dramatic both because of the amazing scenery and the speed at which the minibus passed trucks on blind curves at 60 kph) south to Vang Vieng, we felt like we’d arrived at a surreal backpacker summer camp. Nights were spent watching Friends reruns in our choice of about 9 restaurants that played them continuously (and all served the same mediocre, but very cheap, ‘western’ food) on the main road in town. Days were spent floating down the Nam Song river, stopping off to explore temples and caves (we went tubing through one) nestled in the surrounding limestone cliffs, and visiting one or more of about a dozen makeshift restaurant / bars constructed from boards and bamboo, packed full of backpackers playing volleyball, sunbathing, swimming, and watching each other jump off platforms and ropeswings extending 40 feet or so over the river. Everyone we met was staying longer than they’d planned, some extending a 2 day visit to 10 days or more -- sadly we could only stay 1 extra day without missing our flight back to Bangkok…


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hi buy song, got yao noi remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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wat's happening... remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>See the itinerary of this trip, and details about each destination.

we also spent several wonderful days in cappadocian region of central turkey. this was truly one of the highlights of our time in turkey as well as on the entire trip. hiking through the beautiful valleys, rock formations, and entire cities dug out of the rock was like walking through a star wars set. we felt like we were on tatooine in our cave hotel room carved into one of the rock formations.


we finished off the trip visiting the palaces, mosques, and the grand bazaar of istanbul, picking up the obligatory turkish rug and some souveneirs -- the first we'd really bought on the entire trip.

can't say much about the turkish food, as either one or both of us were sick for the entire two weeks -- we spent several days lying around in bed recovering... a highlight was kirk vomiting all over laura about 10 minutes into a 4 hour busride across the desert... we were quite a spectacle on the side of the road with the bus driver dousing laura in bottled water while kirk was doubled over in the ditch... we also loved our overnight 'express' bus ride across turkey where we stopped -- literally - 6 times in 8 hours for 20 minute food and bathroom breaks... with the lights on the whole night and a little boy in a boy tie waking us up every 15 minutes to ask us if we wanted any more tea... we were there during ramadan, so all we can figure is they were all trying to catch up with their meals during the night... but we'd go back to turkey in a second. the people were amazingly friendly and there were an infinite amount of things to see and do... it was fantastic.
now its istanbul not constantinople remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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baby lets cruise... remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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it was so wonderful to visit with them and comforting to spend a few days around some familiar faces. we loved staying in a real hotel room, riding around in a car, and all of the goodies (everything from board games to toothpaste) they brought. they even baked a birthday cake for lauras 30th birthday and checked it on the plane to germany -- we had a great little party with cake, streamers, and party hats.

we also got jim and joan into the backpacker adventure spirit with some alpine hikes, a few trips down a luge course, and a trip into the salt mines.

theres no place like home remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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the hills are alive remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>we spent another few days in the lake bohinj and bled regions doing short hikes and swimming and paddling around the alpine lakes. we also went on a fantastic canyoning trip -- loving the waterproof camera.

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we also spent a few days on kauai, hiking, kayaking and relaxing. we stayed 5 nights in a cottage right on the beach. the longest we have stayed anywhere in 5 months...

off we go... out of the wild blue yonder remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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tony perez and the kles remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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partied like it was 1989 at a prague dance club on 80s night for lauras 30th birthday... it has been ages since we'd heard most of the songs, but kirk danced the 'locomotion' like a rockstar.
also visited cesky krumlov -- our favorite city on the whole trip. a beautiful town that was mostly untouched by the 1970s concrete block architecture that plagues the rest of eastern europe, as it had been abandoned by the germans that lived there after wwII and is just becoming resettled. we went on some awesome hikes and a 35km kayaking trip, dropping through chutes in the many dams on the vlatava river like we were on the logride at disneyland and stopping off in beautiful villages all along the way-- we didnt even have to leave our kayak for pizza and drinks served to us on the water!

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we also took a trip by scooter to the bay of kotor in montenegro... kirks scooter handling at 30 mph while being passed by semi trucks and buses going 60 on a narrow two lane road on cliffs overlooking the ocean was flawless.

the med... just what the doctor ordered. remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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we then visited krakow, a beautiful, and not too touristy city (yet), full of horse drawn carriages, beautiful squares, great restaurants and more churches per acre than anywhere outside rome. in the photo above we trying to fit in in the 'dragons lair,' a network of tunnels under the wavel castle in central krakow...
from krakow we took a daytrip to auschwitz, which was an extremely moving and sad experience. throughout eastern europe, we have visited many similiar museums and memorials depicting the holocaust as well as the following communist dictatorship and oppression faced by poland and its neighbors. the horrors and tragedies the people in this part of the world have faced over the last century are mind-boggling and indescribable.

living the dream and loving the sausage... remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>but kirk wanted to check it out and we were already in the area and surely the city would have cleaned up their tourist extortion act by now... or not... the situation was ridiculously the same, and our tix were checked sometimes three times on the same platform... ticket machines were closed, tourists were constantly being fined.... locals never bought tickets and were never checked... and on the last day out, we missed our train to the czech republic because we had to stand in line for 35 minutes for a metro ticket before standing in line another 20 minutes for a train ticket at which point, the agent refused to sell us the ticket saying we didnt have 'enough time' for the train that was leaving 5 minutes later and was literally 20 steps from the ticket booth...
but we loved visiting the hungarian baths, the history was interesting and the city was beautiful. we also visited the smaller city of eger nearby for a very relaxing few days prior to going to budapest...

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]]>celebrating tNa in j-hole remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>go grande or go home remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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]]>met up with newlyweds adam and travis for the san juan festival in porto -- little old ladies and two year olds on their dads shoulders all wacking each other with plastic squeaky hammers -- followed by the best fireworks display any of us had ever seen. laura even hit a policeman on the head... would love to post the picture, but laura also lost the camera and all the pix from this portion of the trip. kirks nephew is now having fun with the hammer... ask his dad how much the whole family loves being wacked by a squeaky plastic hammer...
stop... hammer time remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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guinness is good for you.... remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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Livin la vida Levoca remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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we love star alliance remains copyright of the author MorrisAK1, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.
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